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A braising dish filled with fat bigoli egg pasta noodles covered in duck ragù

How to Make Venetian Duck Ragù w/Bigoli Pasta (Bigoli al Ragù d’Anatra)

This Italian duck ragù recipe is down-home regional Italian cooking at its very best. Italy is celebrated for its endless pasta sauces and ragùs, but surprisingly, one of the most famous and delicious of them all isn’t really that well-known outside of Italy. But that’s changing. Bigoli al Ragù d’Anatra (or Bigoli with duck ragù) hails from the Veneto region in Northeast Italy where we live. It’s a slow-simmered ragù made with duck, soffrito, garlic, herbs, spices, white wine, butter, duck or chicken stock, milk, and extra virgin olive oil all simmered to perfection and usually tossed with fresh bigoli (pronounced Bee-go-lee) or pappardelle pasta. And it’s Grade A delicious. As in, it’s one of my absolute favorite Italian ragùs to make and eat. This isn’t a recipe that’s “ready in 30 minutes or less”. It’s a recipe to be savored and tasted along the way while you sip on some wine and it fills up the entire house with its warm and delicious aromas. I’ve included step-by-step recipe photos at the end to make this ragù a little easier.

Authentic Northern Italian Duck Ragù Recipe

There are a plethora of Italian duck ragù recipes online, but this one is modeled on the most common one found here in the Veneto (Venice and the surrounding cities in this province where we live). This is the birthplace of Venetian duck ragù (Ragù d’Anatra pronounced “Donna-truh”).  And it’s often paired with another local specialty, fresh, fat, and chewy bigoli pasta (or tagliatelle or pappardelle in this case).

I developed and tweaked this recipe specifically to taste like the “Bigoli d’Anatra” served at our favorite local restaurants and trattorias. We also have a local family-owned specialty food shop that makes and sells artisanal (nationally award-winning) duck ragù downtown in their shop (plus they also mass-produce it and it’s sold commercially at all the grocery stores). It’s delicious. I used this ready-to-heat-and-eat duck ragù as inspiration and for side-by-side comparisons throughout the recipe development. It definitely helped me get just the right taste and texture of the real Venetian duck ragù.  Plus, I have a lovely guy born and raised right here (with a seriously great palate and who also just happens to be one of the biggest duck ragù fans). He weighed in at every step and tasted and provided feedback.

And after every dash of this and that was finally added, we did a side-by-side comparison of my duck ragù vs the artisanal version — and he said my duck ragù was even better♡. He’s extremely honest and serious when it comes to a project like this and anything as it relates to food, so you can trust that this is as real and authentic as any duck ragù recipe from this region of Italy will ever be. 

What Is Venetian Duck Ragù and What Does it Taste Like?

The best way I can describe the flavor of Venetian duck ragù is that it tastes like the most delicious Thanksgiving meal but in the form of Italian pasta. This is likely from all the sage and subtle warm spice flavors that permeate the ragù. Along with the prominence of sage, there’s also a slight hint of buttery rosemary, sautéed onions, carrots, celery, and garlic that disintegrates into the sauce as it slowly simmers before finally becoming a proper ragù. The next layer of flavor comes from the addition of white wine and the background notes of the warm spices — cinnamon, freshly grated nutmeg, and a single clove.

Each of these spices is really subtle, but helps create the unmistakable Venetian ragù flavor. None of them stands out directly or aggressively, but instead, add warmth and depth to this ragù. Most people might even be hard-pressed to identify the exact spices used because of the gentle way they’re added to infuse the milk.  And if all of these flavors weren’t perfectly delicious enough, the ragù gets a generous sprinkling of grated Grana Padano cheese at the end. It’s so delicious. 

Cinnamon, Cloves + Freshly Grated Nutmeg are Spices often used in Northern Italian Cuisine

You might be thinking it’s strange for savory Italian dishes to use cloves, cinnamon, or even nutmeg, but it’s actually commonplace. Especially in the northeastern regions of Italy where the influence of the great spice trade can still be seen (and tasted) today. Duck ragù is thought to have originated in Venice where the flavors and spices used in the dish reflect the influence of the Ottoman Empire. You can also see this influence in the architecture throughout the city. Duck ragù from this region (in its truest form) has no tomatoes in it. However, today many versions include small amounts of tomato paste or tomato purée but always in moderation to the ratio of duck meat. In our immediate area, I’ve never seen tomatoes added to duck ragù, but I can bet that it’s also really tasty.

Love at First Bite — The First Time I Ate Italian Duck Ragù

Bigoli with duck ragù is a pasta that my guy grew up eating regularly and as previously mentioned, it’s one of his favorite pasta dishes. Years ago when he took me to try it for the first time, I wasn’t thinking much of it when he described it to me.  Instead, I was thinking, “yea, ok I’m sure it’s good, but how good can duck ragù actually be?”.  It completely blew me away. The first thing I said was, “This tastes like Thanksgiving”. The fat chewy porous fresh bigoli pasta and the meaty sage-filled ragù are as good as pasta gets.  If you can’t find fresh bigoli pasta where you live, substitute ribbons of pappardelle or tagliatelle egg pasta. Both of these noodles are also traditionally eaten with this duck ragù.

Below are a Few Versions of Local Italian Duck Ragù (Heat + Serve and Restaurant Versions)

Classic Venetian Duck Ragù Ingredients

  • ground duck meat
  • pancetta (optional)
  • butter
  • extra virgin olive oil
  • sage
  • rosemary
  • onions
  • carrots
  • celery
  • garlic
  • bay leaf
  • salt + freshly cracked black pepper
  • stock
  • white wine
  • whole milk
  • a pinch of ground cinnamon
  • 1 clove
  • freshly grated nutmeg
  • Grana Padano cheese

How to Make Classic Italian Venetian Duck Ragù 

    1. Clean and debone the duck. Break down the duck by cutting it down the center of the back and opening it up. Remove all of the skin and fat to a separate bowl. Using a boning knife (or another sharp knife) remove the meat from the bones and place it into the bowl of a food processor. Pulse the meat about 5-6 times, or until the meat is about the size of ground pork. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. Reserve the bones to make duck stock.
    2. Render the duck fat from the skin. (You can skip this step altogether and move on to step 3, but I don’t like to waste anything. And duck fat is like liquid gold in the kitchen). In a large dutch oven or another heavy-bottomed pot, add the duck skin and excess duck fat in a single layer and turn the heat on to medium. Cook slowly over medium heat until the fat has completely rendered and the duck skin is crispy. Remove the crispy skin and pour the fat into a heat-proof container. 
    3. Infuse the milk. In a small pot heat the milk until just before boiling, add the pinch of cinnamon, cinnamon stick, clove, and a little freshly grated nutmeg. Allow the spices to steep in the milk while you proceed with the recipe. Strain the milk just before adding it to the ragù.
    4. Fry the herbs. In the same pot, add the olive oil, butter, 1 tablespoon of duck fat, chopped fresh sage leaves, chopped fresh rosemary, and garlic. Sautée until the sage and rosemary are crispy, and the garlic is just golden brown. 
    5. Make the soffrito. Add the onions, carrots, celery, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Stir the mixture to combine, cover with a lid, reduce heat to low, and cook stirring occasionally for about 10-12 minutes, or until vegetables are soft and translucent but not browned. 
    6. Cook the ground duck. Add the ground duck to the soffrito, dried rubbed sage, dried rosemary, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and black pepper to taste. Stir to combine and cook over low heat covered for 15 minutes or until the bottom of the pan starts to reveal a fond (browning). 
    7. Deglaze the pan + simmer the ragù.  Add the white wine and simultaneously scrape the brown bits from the bottom of the pan using a wooden spoon as you stir the mixture. Cook for a couple of minutes to allow some of the alcohol to evaporate. Next, add the stock, strained milk, and a bay leaf. Bring the mixture to a boil,  reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook for about 1 hour. Adjust seasonings adding more salt and pepper if necessary (you may also remove the bay leaf at this point according to your tastes). Return the lid, and continue cooking over low heat for another 40 to 60 minutes, or until the sauce has thickened into a ragù. 
    8. Cook the pasta and finish the ragù. In lightly salted boiling water, cook pasta to al dente according to package instructions. At just about 3 minutes before noodles are cooked to al dente, ladle in approximately 1/4 cup starchy pasta cooking water to the ragù to help emulsify the sauce and better coat the noodles.  Adjust seasonings, and add strained pasta to the sauce. Toss to combine and serve with freshly grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano cheese and Enjoy!.

Below are A Few of Our Favorite Italian Ragùs + What Sets Them Apart from a Regular Sauce

What is Italian Ragù and How is it Different from Pasta Sauce?

Ragù is different from the average pasta sauce for a few reasons. We’ve listed a few of the most common points and also provided some photos of our favorites above.

  • The soffrito. Ragù is typically made beginning with a soffrito (slow-cooked onions, carrots, and celery in olive oil).
  • The meat is braised. The meat in many ragù recipes is often braised with the soffrito for a prolonged period of time before adding in any liquid (stock, tomatoes, or milk). 
  • There is more meat than liquid. After the addition of a liquid is introduced to the slow-cooked meat, the mixture will cook for at least another hour or longer until it becomes condensed, thick, and the proper consistency of a ragù. Not only does the longer cooking time create an intensely flavored final ragù, but it melts in your mouth.
  • A typical pasta sauce requires only that the meat be browned and just cooked through before adding the liquid. Pasta sauce also has a much shorter cooking time and contains more liquid (like canned tomatoes) than meat.

Bigoli, Tagliatelle, and Pappardelle — The Perfect Egg Pasta to Eat with Venetian Duck Ragù

How to Cook Pasta Like a Pro Every Time

If you’ve eaten a forkful of pasta at your favorite restaurant you may have wondered why it can sometimes be so much richer and velvety (even tastier) than the stuff you make at home. Restaurants typically use more fat (and sometimes dairy) than you’d ever imagine cooking with at home. And one of the biggest differences between your spaghetti and theirs mostly comes down to cooking techniques and the quality of ingredients used. In order to bring out the best texture, flavor, and maximum pasta goodness, follow the guidelines below.

  • Don’t pre-cook your pasta noodles. In most cases, try to time the pasta so that the sauce is ready just before (or well in advance of) the noodles and not the other way around.
  • Add starchy pasta cooking water to the sauce. Just before the noodles are finished cooking to “al dente” doneness, add a little starchy water to the sauce and stir.
  • Don’t over-salt the cooking water.  If the pasta cooking water is too salty, it’ll make your final sauce too salty when it gets added. Alternatively, if the pasta water is not salty enough, the noodles will be bland.
  • Cook the pasta directly in the sauce at the end and toss. When you can, it’s good to finish cooking the noodles directly in the sauce for 30 seconds to 2 minutes.  But this is not a technique to be used when making Pasta alla Carbonara because egg yolks are involved.
  • Don’t add any cheese while the sauce is boiling, simmering, or otherwise cooking.  Adding grated cheese to a pasta sauce while it’s cooking, causes the cheese to separate and become stringy.  The fat in the cheese will separate leaving the sauce oily. Instead, remove the sauce or pasta from the heat and add the cheese after 15-20 seconds. Alternatively, in some recipes, you may serve the grated cheese at the table instead of adding it directly to the pasta.
  • Skip the dairy. Butter and cream aren’t necessary to create a smooth velvety texture to pasta, although in the right amounts and in the right sauce the addition can be delicious. If you’re using dairy to enhance the flavor, go for it, but if you’re just trying to create a better mouthfeel, use the techniques above and you can’t go wrong.
  • If the sauce is tomato-based use Mutti brand tomatoes (or the best San Marzano DOP tomatoes). My recommended canned tomato brand to use for all your tomato-based pasta sauces is Mutti. These are the best 100% Italian (non-GMO, no additives or preservatives added), tomatoes from near and around Parma, Italy. These tomatoes are available in the US (and other global markets including China. In Italy, if your family doesn’t grow and can their own tomatoes, or buy them from a local producer, Mutti is a staple found in just about every cupboard here. The reason is simple. These tomatoes are delicious with intense real tomato flavor. We have access to an abundant variety of high-quality canned San Marzano DOP tomatoes that we love and buy, but we still always keep Mutti on hand. They’re consistently great-tasting. This is important when I’m developing and sharing recipes. I want the Biting audience to have the best possible results when replicating a dish at home. Using a consistent brand that’s available to me and you make the most sense. I’m not paid by Mutti. for the endorsement. They are just one of the best brands out there, and using them absolutely will make all the difference in your homemade pasta or pizza sauce.

Classic Italian Ragù tips + tricks + FAQ’s

  • What’s “soffrito” and is it the same as “mirepoix”? Soffrito is the Italian word for “under-fried” or “fried slowly”. It’s the process of gently cooking diced vegetables (usually onions, carrots, and celery)  in olive oil until soft (not browned) and the flavors are released. It’s similar to the French “mirepoix” which also uses onions, carrots, and celery but uses butter instead of olive oil to fry them in.
  • Can I substitute fresh sage leaves for ground sage or dried rubbed sage? You may substitute the fresh sage for ground or rubbed sage, but keep in mind dried sage is more concentrated in flavor than fresh sage leaves. Furthermore, dried ground sage is more potent than dried rubbed sage which is fluffy and soft. Overall, fresh sage is more flavorful than any dried variety and retains its natural oils. This is why I like to use both fresh and freshly dried homemade rubbed sage in this duck ragù recipe. See the recipe notes section for sage equivalents and substitutions.
  • Can I substitute duck breast or duck leg meat for the whole duck? You can definitely use duck breast and duck legs in this recipe. Just use equal amounts as called for in the recipe (or close to it). You may need to use more or less olive oil if your ragù seems dry or even fatty enough. If you can get ground duck meat from your local butcher, even better. Ground duck is readily available in all the supermarkets where we live, but you may have to seek out a specialty shop in your area.
  • What can I substitute for bigoli pasta? Most likely you won’t easily find fresh egg bigoli pasta in the States, but pappardelle and tagliatelle egg pasta are also traditionally used in this specialty pasta. And they are incredibly delicious.

Looking for More Delicious Pasta Dishes to Make?

Above are a few of our favorite pasta dishes that we think you might also enjoy.

Let’s get started!

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a white pasta bowl with a portion of fat bigoli egg pasta noodles covered in duck ragù and sprinkled with Grana Padano grated cheese with a view of Italian rooftops out of the window

Classic Italian Duck Ragù w/Bigoli Pasta (Bigoli al Ragù d’Anatra)


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  • Author: Kelly
  • Total Time: 3 hours 30 minutes
  • Yield: 6 to 8 servings depending on hunger level 1x

Description

Bigoli with duck ragù is down-home regional Italian cooking at its best. This slow-cooked ragù made with duck, soffrito, garlic, herbs, spices, white wine, butter, stock, milk, and extra virgin olive oil all simmered to perfection and tossed with bigoli (pronounced Bee-go-lee) or pappardelle pasta. Don’t want to de-bone a whole duck? Use duck breast or duck legs instead. No matter what, this pasta recipe is sure to impress. 


Ingredients

Units Scale
  • 3 ounces fresh bigoli egg pasta per person (80g)
  • 1 lb 5 ounces duck meat from 1 whole duck, deboned and skin removed (610g)
  • 2 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter (35g)
  • 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (55g)
  • 1 tablespoon duck fat (13g)
  • 12 fresh sage leaves, chopped (4g)
  • 3 tablespoons + 1/2 teaspoon dried rubbed sage (about 2025 whole dried sage leaves crumbled)
  • 1 sprig of fresh rosemary, stem removed and rosemary chopped
  • 1/2 to 1 sprig freshly dried rosemary, crumbled
  • 2 1/2 ounces carrot, diced (about 2 medium carrots) (65g)
  • 3 1/2 ounces yellow onion, diced (about 1 1/2 medium onions) (100g)
  • 1 medium celery stalk rib, diced (40g)
  • 2 garlic cloves, smashed (8g)
  • 1 dried bay leaf
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste (6g)
  • freshly cracked black pepper (30 turns on peppermill), or to taste
  • 1 cup of homemade or storebought duck stock or chicken stock
  • 2 ounces dry white wine (pinot grigio, soave, etc.) (50g)

spice-infused milk ingredients

  • 5 tablespoons whole milk (70g)
  • a pinch of ground cinnamon
  • 1 inch piece of cinnamon stick
  • 1 clove
  • freshly grated nutmeg (about 7-10 quick bursts on a Microplane grater)


Instructions

  1. Clean and debone the duck. Break down the duck by cutting it down the center of the back and opening it up. Remove all of the skin and fat to a separate bowl. Using a boning knife (or another sharp knife) remove the meat from the bones and place it into the bowl of a food processor. Pulse the meat about 5-6 times, or until the meat is about the size of ground pork. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. Reserve the bones to make duck stock.
  2. Render the duck fat from the skin. (You can skip this step altogether and move on to step 3, but I don’t like to waste anything. And duck fat is like liquid gold in the kitchen). In a large dutch oven or another heavy-bottomed pot, add the duck skin and excess duck fat in a single layer and turn the heat on to medium. Cook slowly over medium heat until the fat has completely rendered and the duck skin is crispy. Remove the crispy skin and pour the fat into a heat-proof container. 
  3. Infuse the milk. In a small pot heat the milk until just before boiling, add the pinch of cinnamon, cinnamon stick, clove, and a little freshly grated nutmeg. Allow the spices to steep in the milk while you proceed with the recipe. Strain the milk just before adding it to the ragù.
  4. Fry the herbs. In the same pot, add the olive oil, butter, 1 tablespoon of duck fat, chopped fresh sage leaves, chopped fresh rosemary, and garlic. Sautée until the sage and rosemary are crispy, and the garlic is just golden brown. 
  5. Make the soffrito. Add the onions, carrots, celery, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Stir the mixture to combine, cover with a lid, reduce heat to low, and cook stirring occasionally for about 10-12 minutes, or until vegetables are soft and translucent but not browned. 
  6. Cook the ground duck. Add the ground duck to the soffrito, dried rubbed sage, dried rosemary, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and black pepper to taste. Stir to combine and cook over low heat covered for 15 minutes or until the bottom of the pan starts to reveal a fond (browning). 
  7. Deglaze the pan + simmer the ragù.  Add the white wine and simultaneously scrape the brown bits from the bottom of the pan using a wooden spoon as you stir the mixture. Cook for a couple of minutes to allow some of the alcohol to evaporate. Next, add the stock, strained milk, and a bay leaf. Bring the mixture to a boil,  reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook for about 1 hour. Adjust seasonings adding more salt and pepper if necessary (you may also remove the bay leaf at this point according to your tastes). Return the lid, and continue cooking over low heat for another 40 to 60 minutes, or until the sauce has thickened into a ragù. 
  8. Cook the pasta and finish the ragù. In lightly salted boiling water, cook pasta to al dente according to package instructions. At just about 3 minutes before noodles are cooked to al dente, ladle in approximately 1/4 cup starchy pasta cooking water to the ragù to help emulsify the sauce and better coat the noodles.  Adjust seasonings, and add strained pasta to the sauce. Toss to combine and serve with freshly grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano cheese and Enjoy!.

Notes

  • You can add a little pancetta if you’d like to for extra flavor and fat.
  • You can substitute different forms of sage for the other if you don’t have fresh, freshly dried, or dried rubbed sage. Just remember that ground sage will always be more potent than freshly dried sage leaves and dried rubbed sage. And fresh sage leaves will always be more flavorful. This is the reason I choose to use dried rubbed sage and fresh sage leave. See sage equivalents below.
  • If you can’t find freshly made bigoli egg pasta, substitute fresh (or dried) pappardelle egg pasta. Just be sure to look for egg pasta and not a regular semolina flour pasta. Egg pasta’s consistency and sauce absorption ability is the perfect complement to this duck ragù. And whatever you do, don’t use spaghetti noodles. Bigoli tastes and feels nothing like spaghetti and it’s not a good match for this ragù.
  • You can use ground duck meat from your local butcher, to replace having to buy and debone a whole duck.  You may also use duck breast and leg meat (or a combination of them both), if you can’t find a whole duck or just don’t want to break it down and debone it.

Sage Equivalents + Measurements

1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage = 1 teaspoon dried sage
12 fresh sage leaves = 1 teaspoon dried sage
12 fresh sage leaves = 1 teaspoon dried sage

-Ground sage is made by grinding whole leaves into a fine powder (like how other powdered herbs are made). While rubbed sage is made by rubbing dried whole sage leaves rubbed together to create a light fluffy mix.
Rubbed sage is lighter and less concentrated than ground sage so a teaspoon of rubbed sage will be less intense than a teaspoon of ground sage.
  • Prep Time: 1 hour
  • Cook Time: 2 hours 30 minutes
  • Category: Pasta
  • Method: Slow-Simmered
  • Cuisine: Italian

Nutrition

  • Serving Size: 1/2 cup
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Italian Duck Ragù step-by-step recipe photos

 

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